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West Cork History

~ History of Durrus/Muintervara

West Cork History

Monthly Archives: October 2011

O’Donovan estates, Muintervara

09 Sunday Oct 2011

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bantry irish history west cork, glennacroim mccarthy, justice of the peace irish college


 

O’Donovan Magistrates:

 

Richard O’Donovan 1818, Fort Lodge, Durrus listed 1838 , son Richard Esq. O’Donovan Cove, and Jane d Alexander O’Donovan, Squince.  Father of Richard O’Donovan JP History  Brother of Timothy and Dr. Daniel O’Donovan JP  He married Maria O’Sullivan on the 15th October 1833, her father was Murty Og, of Ceimatringane House, Castletownbere. She died at Fort Lodge, aged 52, voted 1850 for Denis Galwey as High Constable for Ibane and Ballyroe (Clonakilty).

Richard O’Donovan 1845, Glenlough Cottage, Durrus listed 1838 , son Richard Esq. O’Donovan Cove, and Jane d Alexander O’Donovan, Squince.  Son of Richard O’Donovan JP and Maria O’Sullivan, nephew of Timothy and Dr. Daniel O’Donovan JP , listed 1854.

Timothy O’Donovan (1790–1854), 1818, O’Donovan’s Cove, in ruins 1875, Durrus, listed 1838 , son Richard Esq. and Jane d Alexander O’Donovan, Squince.  Correspondent with Antiquarian Dr. John O’Donovan re O’Donovans of Carbery.  Brother of Dr O’Donovan and Richard O’Donovan JP and uncle of Richard O’Donovan JP.  Landlord and political organiser. Member Election Committee, Rickard Deasy, Clonakilty (later Attorney General) 1855

 

Timothy O’Donovan (1790–1854), 1818, O’Donovan’s Cove, Durrus, listed 1838 , son Richard Esq. and Jane d Alexander O’Donovan, Squince.  Correspondent with Antiquarian Dr. John O’Donovan re O’Donovans of Carbery.  Brother of Dr O’Donovan and Richard O’Donovan JP and uncle of Richard O’Donovan JP.

 

 

 

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ZvT84JCKTIhMqqZjJsF_AUJLH8S820ksObykwOty3wg/edit?pref=2&pli=1

 

 

 

 

Signature of Timothy O’Donovan, Magistrate/Justice of the Peace 1830 for Tithe Aplottments Caheragh (The O”Donovans are buried in the old Caheragh graveyard)

Takes a little time to open, details of title, tenancies, plan of estate.

Sale O’Donovan Estate, Durrus, Landed Estate Court 1876“>The above photographs are of Fort Lodge, an O’Donovan house near the residence of O’Donovan’s Cove.  The property is owned by Mr. Ryan.   Of that original residence nothing remains but the stones may have been used in the building of the house and farm buildings of the Cronin family which are adjacent to the site.

From University College Galway Database on landed estates.

ESTATE: O’DONOVAN (KILCROHANE)

Associated Families

  • O’Donovan (Kilcrohane)
  • Lavallin

Description

The estate of Timothy O’Donovan, of O’Donovan’s Cove, parishes of Durrus and Kilcrohane, amounted to almost 2000 acres in county Cork in the 1870s. The estate of the late Richard O’Donovan, MD, amounted to over 1600 acres in county Cork at the same time. Both were among the principal lessors in the parish of Kilcrohane, West Carbery, at the time of Griffith’s Valuation. Richard and Daniel O’Donovan held townlands in the parish of Inchigeelagh in 1851. In June 1869, over 1400 acres at Coolmountain, owned by Richard Donovan and others, was offered for sale in the Landed Estates Court. The sale notice indicates that the lands were held on lease from members of the Tonson, Lords Riversdale, estate since 1832. Kathleen O’Donovan, executrix of Richard O’Donovan, offered over 1000 acres of this estate for sale in the Landed Estates Court in July 1876. The original lease, dated 1752, was between the Bishop of Clonfert, Kilmacduagh and Kilfenora and William Roberts. Timothy O’Donovan had taken up the lease in 1844.

Houses

House Name / Description Townland Civil Parish PLU DED Barony County Map Ref
Fort Lodge (H2676)
John B. Gumbleton was leasing this property to Richard Donovan at the time of Griffith’s Valuation, when it was valued at £7. In 1837 Lewis noted it as the seat of R. O’Donovan. It is now in ruins.
Tullig Durrus Bantry Glanlough 29 West Carbery (West) Cork Lat/Lon:51.60798
-9.60537
OSI Ref:
V888407 Discovery map #88. OS Sheet #130.
O’Donovan’s Cove (H2687)
Timothy O’Donovan held this property in fee at the time of Griffith’s Valuation, when it was valued at £12. Lewis recorded it as the seat of T.O’Donovan in 1837. It is described as “in ruins” on the 25-inch map of the 1890s and no trace remains now.
Rossnacaheragh Kilcrohane Bantry Glanlough 29 West Carbery (West) Cork Lat/Lon:51.60523
-9.60960
OSI Ref:
V885404 Discovery map #88. OS Sheet #130.

Archival sources

  • National Archives of Ireland: Landed Estates’ Court Rentals (O’Brien), Donovan, 11 June 1869, Vol 94, MRGS 39/045, (microfilm copy in NUIG)
  • National Archives of Ireland: Landed Estates’ Court Rentals (O’Brien), O’Donovan, 7 July 1876, Vol 125, MRGS 39/056, (microfilm copy in NUIG)

Contemporary printed sources

  • GRIFFITH’S VALUATION OF IRELAND, 1850-1858. : West Carbery (West) Barony: 54 (Rossnacaheragh), 122 (Tullig)
  • GRIFFITH’S VALUATION OF IRELAND, 1850-1858. : East Carbery (West) Barony: 115 (Coolmountain)
  • HUSSEY DE BURGH, U. H. The Landowners of Ireland. An alphabetical list of the owners of estates of 500 acres or £500 valuation and upwards in Ireland. Dublin: Hodges, Foster and Figgis, 1878: 348
  • LEWIS, Samuel. A Topographical Dictionary of Ireland. London: S. Lewis & Co., 1837: Vol.I, 591 (Durrus Parish)
  • PARLIAMENTARY PAPERS. Return of owners of land of one acre and upwards, in the several counties …. in Ireland. HC 1876, LXXX: 1

O’Donovans

In 1615, Donnel O’Donovan, of Castledonovan, surrendered and was regranted large areas of lands including an interest in Brahalish.  The Antiquarian Dr John O’Donovan, In his translation of ‘The Tribes of Ireland’ by Aonghis O Dalaigh 1852 states that  Timothy O’Donovan of Ardahill, Kilcrohane descends from Keadagh Mor the youngest son of O’Donovan, by the daughter of Sir Owen MacCarthy Reagh was himself the purchaser of Adrahill, Carravileen, Derryclovane and Faunmore.   The ancestor the Richard O’Donovan, Fort Lodge, Dr Daniel O’Donovan, Ahakista, and Timothy O’Donovan, the Cove took this large tract of land for 999 years from a Mr Congreve, of Mount Congreve, Co Waterford an undertaker and they still pay some small head rent.

One of the O’Donovan’s of Clann Lochlainn purchased land in fee simple at Ardahill, Kilcrohane but there is now no trace of his fine residence and imposing iron gates. He may have been Ceadach who was formerly in Inchoclogh, Bantry. In 1794 Timothy O’Donovan of this branch was born and married Mary daughter of Daniel O’Sullivan of Reendonegan House, Bantry and Hanora O’Connell.   She was the aunt of Daniel O’Connell who secured Catholic Emancipation in 1828.  Possibly around 1850 Ceadach O’Donovan helped in improvements to the Kilcrohane Church. He also built a water mill near the house and the mill race is still extant. By the mid 19th Century the family had fallen on hard times with two brothers in the Workhouse in Bantry.   Some of the stones from the house may have been used to build outhouses near Fitzpatrick’s Pub.

Another O’Donovan of Clann Cathail held land by way of 999 year lease from Lord Riversdale and their house was at Tullig, O’Donovan’s Cove near Ahakista.   Timothy O’Donovan of this branch was born in 1790 and was succeeded by his nephew Richard.  Timothy was a Justice of the Peace in 1823 which was unusual for a Catholic who were only then a handful of the approximately 300 JPs in Co Cork at the time. In a Petty Session case in Castletownbeare involving Father Healy and a parishioner Sullivan in January 1845 his written opinion was sought by Resident Magistrate Litttle and he was described as a worthy Catholic Magistrate well known in the west Riding of Cork as a most practical and enlightened Catholic in this case on the discipline and conduct of Roman Catholic Clergymen.

Richard built the house Fort Lodge, now in ruins c 1830.  He in turn married Maria O’Sullivan on the 15th. October 1833; her father was Murty Og, of Ceimatringane House, Castletownbere. She died at Fort Lodge, aged 52, on the 27th May 1865 the death reported by her son Richard. The Antiquarian Dr. John O’Donovan states that a Richard O’Donovan of this family entered the Irish College in Toulouse, joined the Irish Service in France and became a well known swordsman.  In this house Diarmuid (Jerry) a’Duna, the last of the MacCarthys of Glennacroim near Dunmanway spent his final days ending an ancient line.  He was 83 when he died and was the great grandson of Teige-an Duna the last to reside in the McCarthy Castle in Dunmanway.

Richard O’Donovan, O’Donovan’s Cove is listed in Pigot’s Directory of 1824 and at Fort Lodge in Slater’s Directory of 1846 as well as one of Co. Cork’s property owners in 1870. Daniel O’Donovan of Ahakista cottage (now demolished) is listed in Slater 1862 as a Magistrate.    Tim O’Donovan appears in Thom’s Directory 1862 at O’Donovan’s Cove; he is buried in a large tomb in the old graveyard in Caheragh.  Tim O’Donovan is listed as a Magistrate of O’Donovan’s Cove, Carrickbui, and Bantry.   It is believed that the O’Donovans had sub-tenants such as the O’Brien family of Glenlough.

The various O’Donovan houses are shown in the 1842 Ordnance Survey Maps of 1842 all surrounded by trees and outbuildings at Ardahill Kilcrohane, O’Donovan’s Cove and Fort Lodge.  The Cove had extensive wooded grounds going down to the sea and a gate lodge on the northern upper road. Guy’s Directory of 1875 refers to Timothy O’Donovan deceased and the Cove ‘almost in ruins’.  By 1913, the Cove was shown in ruins and Ardahill had disappeared. There is now no trace of the house at Ardahill or O’Donovan’s Cove, apart from wide iron gates on the main Durrus-Ahakista road near the Cove.  These gates are known as the white gates and in former times were a gathering place for fisherfolk.   Mrs Cronin of the nearby farm (b.1917) says that the house was demolished and she heard that the Cronin farmhouse was partly built with stones from that house.  She said there were stables and kennels for the hounds.  She understood that the O’Donovans were good landlords. The orchard nearby is still extant.  There is another later O’Donovan house on higher ground (Fort Lodge) last occupied by Miss Kate O’Donovan (known as Miss Katty) who in the 1870s had 1,243 acres. She is remembered as being very generous and in the end indigent, apart from the old age pension.  She died in 1928 and is buried in the Durrus Chapel Graveyard with her cousin Jane Blair.  In her latter years the house had part of the roof missing and on the night of her wake the timbers of the house were removed for fire wood.  The house was lost and forgotten until Mr Ryan purchased the property and in 2006 removed the ivy revealing the full extent of that property.

Other branches of the O’Donovan family conformed to the Established Church from the end of the 17th Century and in the 1730s and intermarried with the Townsend, Beecher and Tonson families among others and their descendants gave service in the Royal Navy, British army and Colonial Service.

In the 18th and 19th centuries families in West Cork and South Kerry such as the O’Donovans, the O’Leary, the O’Sullivans, the McSweeneys and McCarthys managed to acquire leasehold interests as middlemen and had close ties of marriage with each other. These interests may be seen in the Tithe Aplottments, Ordnance Survey Name Books and Griffith Valuations. In 1857 Peter McSwiney, the last lineal descendant of the Mac Finin Dubh O’Sullivans (a 400 year old title), after his eviction from Dereen in Kenmare by the Lansdowne Estate, spent his last days in Ahakista Cottage. Richard O’Donovan, O’Donovan’s Cove is listed in Pigot’s Directory of 1824 and at Fort Lodge in Slater’s Directory of 1846 as well as one of Co. Cork’s property owners in 1870. Daniel O’Donovan of Ahakista cottage (now demolished) is listed in Slater 1862 as a Magistrate.    Tim O’Donovan appears in Thom’s Directory 1862 at O’Donovan’s Cove.  Tim O’Donovan is listed as a Magistrate of O’Donovan’s Cove, Carrickbui, and Bantry.  In the late 19th century newspaper obituaries mention ‘old established’ or ‘long tailed’ families and families such as the Dillons and Cantys of Clashadoo, O’Sullivans of Crottees, the Rosses and Kingstons of Glendart are so described and may be indicative of a slightly lesser social stratum then the petty landlord families.

 

Burke’s Peerage 1871 has a piece on the O’Donovans of O’Donovan’s Cove pointing out their ancient lineage and family relations.

Pococke visit to Bantry 1758, smallpox, leprosy A Bandon doctor, John Milner Barry had noted in 1800 that exposure to cowpox gave immunity to smallpox; this was known in West Cork as ‘shinach’ from ‘sine’ the Irish word for teat.

08 Saturday Oct 2011

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Famine 1741 Richard Pococke 1758

Richard Pococke (1704 – 1765), the English-born Bishop of Ossory, travelled in the South West and in 1758 wrote the following in respect of Bantry ‘the chief support of the town is fish and a clandestine import of French brandy’ and re the Beara area, which would have a reference to the other peninsulas ‘they keep their sheep and black cattle ….  They can legally send no fish to France but salmon, all the rest goes to Spain’…… ‘They make huts to keep their cattle in the mountains in summer and live on new churn milk’. …… ‘Girls married at the  age of thirteen  and boys at sixteen’   … ‘People here live to a great age, notwithstanding they drink drams immoderately, living on fish and potatoes, and the sea air makes this custom less pernicious … but then smallpox is very mortal among them, supposed to be owing to the first died.   A sort of scurvy also, which sometimes come near to a leprosie, is frequent among them.   They have great notions of fairies in all these parts, which take the place of witches in other places. …..    All workmen, though only making a ditch or thrashing, do all sorts of handicraft in a private house or fields, had the shameful custom these parts more than any other, of holding a string or something across the way and begging money’.  In relation to smallpox it might be noted that in 1842 the Ordnance Survey Name Book for Rooska mentions a disused sand pit since levelled formerly used to bury smallpox victims.  A Bandon doctor, John Milner Barry had noted in 1800 that exposure to cowpox gave immunity to smallpox; this was known in West Cork as ‘shinach’ from ‘sine’ the Irish word for teat.  There were outbreaks of fever in the mid-1740s, 1762, 1771 and a major epidemic in 1800, 1801  There was a reputed church at Kilhanagan, between Altar and Dunmanus which had a leper’s window.

Barytes Mines Derreenlomane, (Doirín na Lomán: Little Oakwood), Ballydehob, West Cork.

08 Saturday Oct 2011

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barytes, danno mahoney, dereenlomane, durrus, schull


https://www.google.ie/maps/place/Derreennalomane,+Co.+Cork/@51.5863811,-9.5281993,15z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m2!3m1!1s0x48459f1017e6ba6b:0x2600c7a7bb4c0372

Dereenlomane Barytes Mine

This was originally worked as a copper mine by the Rev. Traill of Schull, assisted by Captain William Thomas in 1840 and they sold 19 tons of copper.  They discovered barytes or barium sulphate, a heavy white mineral, used for paint, papermaking for which in the 1850s there was a limited market.  An early use was by Josiah Wedgewood in the making of pottery.  In 1863 Captain Thomas was chartering boats c 160 tons and shipping the barytes to Messrs Martyn Dennis Liverpool and around 150 people were employed.  That year there was a serious flood which resulted in the mine being non operational for a period.  In 1867 the mine at what was described as Cahirolickaney Mountain was inaccessible and Captain Thomas built a road from the mine to the Dunbeacon Road nearly a mile long in three weeks.  It was marked by a celebration with ‘creature comforts’ in abundance, followed by a dance.  Before the road was built the farmers had to carry sea sand and manure along the line of the rocky bed of a river and scramble up the mountain as best they could with back load on horses, men and women.  The road was called Wilson’s after one of the promoters by Father O’Regan.  There were quite a number of fatalities in the operation of the mine which were mentioned in the local press. 

In 1851, 2,500 tons were raised compared to only 800 tons in three other centres in the former United Kingdom.  The material was washed, dried, crushed and milled.  It was then produced as barytes flour; this was packed into bags and sent to an island jetty in Dunmanus Bay by an aerial ropeway 1.23 miles long.  From 1909, the boats carried coal to Dunbeacon and left with barytes.  During the War men dived there looking for remnants of coal.  Prior to that the ore went by horse and cart to Schull pier. The mine also produced a small tonnage of copper (bornite) and approx 22,000 tons of fine barytes. It was worked by a Liverpool Company controlled by the Roe Brothers; one of the assistant Managers was Mr. Barton.  The mine used to be all lit up at night and it looked like a city.  At its height up to 500 were employed, supervised by Welsh miners. The nembers employed in 1915 were 150 described as highly paid.  Among those who worked there were the father and uncles of Danno Mahony of nearby Derreenlomane the World Wrestling Champion. Bells rang to call the labourers to work in the morning.  A report in 1923 described the treatment of the ore as ‘washing, drying, in a revolving furnace, crushing, rolling between steel rollers and milling’.  In 1917 a major fire caused extensive damage, including the underground workings.  Although repairs were carried out, the mine never recovered its former level of activity. In 1922 the then Department of Agriculture and Technical Instruction reviewed the recent history of the mine and commented on it being burnt down in July 1920.   Mr Lynburn of the Department expressed a hope that in time with a more relaxed regime re explosives it might re open.

A line of timber pylons ran from the mine site down the steep hillside all the way to Dunmanus Bay. The pylons, anchored to triangular concrete-and-stone foundations, supported a continuous aerial rope and a number of cable cars. The system was powered by a gas engine. The foundations are all still in situ and can be followed to the sea.  The ships which carried away the ore landed coal and during the War people dived in the area seeking lumps of coal.

Five hundred men had worked at the mine between 1917-18.  Mine water was pumped by a ‘balanced bob’ with the engine house being sited over the main shaft. The gas engine house was located adjacent to the pump house. The mining company entrusted the job of making ore-bearing cable-cars to a local carpenter cum pit-sawyer named Willie Coakley.  He seems to have played a considerable role in erecting the aerial ropeway system and in weaving wicker cable-cars to transport ore from mine to sea.

Boats landed at a pier of which a buoy still survives. The Atridge, Shannon and Hegarty families from Rossmore across the Bay jointly owned  a fishing boat. They would regularly cross to trade potatoes, vegetables and meat for tobacco and brandy. The Captain was Captain was generally Captain Bousy and afterwards the Attridges were known as the Bousys. It was the custom for the miners to play football at a field near the mine every Saturday afternoon.

On the first trial of the aerial ropeway, a number of baskets were laden with barytes and sent down the steep hill to their destination, a pier at Dunmanus Bay.  From there it was exported to Liverpool, London or Glasgow.   However, on releasing the baskets it was discovered that the braking mechanism on the aerial ropeway had failed. On reaching journey’s end, the run-away cable-cars demolished a portion of the aerial rope and caused extensive damage to the system, presumably several pylons were torn from their foundations.

A local wit composed a poem to commemorate the event – the poem was titled  Coakley’s Apparatus’ One line of the poem describes the wicker basket in euphemism as ‘a donkey who would never have a foal’.

At the Dunbeacon side there was an area of houses now derelict which in the early 20th century was a hive of activity and centre of music and dancing known as the ‘Station Heights’. Many of the families were associated with the mines.

When the mines closed many of the miners went to the coal mines of South Wales or to the USA. One of them was Denis John L O’Sullivan, his father originally from Kilcrohane ran a pub in Durrus, who went to the USA and returned. He had a pub in Durrus Village which is still run by his son Danny.

See the full text of the Official Report here. 

Thackeray visit to Bantry 1842

08 Saturday Oct 2011

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From Recollecting John Clarke Sullivan, Nemasket, Mass. USA

http://nemasket.blogspot.com/2010/03/john-clark-sullivan.html

Bantry was typical of Irish towns of the era, with great disparities between the Anglo-Irish population and that of the Native Irish. The great scenic beauty of the region contrasted sharply with the poverty of a large number of its inhabitants. English novelist William Makepeace Thackeray captured this contrast in The Irish Sketch Book of 1842. Describing Bantry a year prior to Sullivan’s birth, Thackeray wrote:

The harbour is beautiful. Small mountains in green undulations rising on the opposite side; great grey ones further back; a pretty island in the midst of the water, which is wonderfully bright and calm. A handsome yacht, and two or three vessels with their Sunday colors out, were lying in the bay. It looked like a seaport scene at a theatre, gay, cheerful, neat, and picturesque. At a little distance the town, too, is pretty. There are some smart houses on the quays, a handsome court-house as usual, a fine large hotel, and plenty of people flocking round the wonderful coach.

The town is most picturesquely situated, climbing up a wooded hill. with numbers of neat cottages here and there, an ugly church with an air of pretension, and a large grave Roman Catholic chapel the highest point of the place. The Main Street was as usual thronged with the squatting blue cloaks, carrying on their eager trade of butter-milk and green apples, and such cheap wares. With the exception of this street and the quay, with their whitewashed and slated houses, it is a town of cabins.

The wretchedness of some of them is quite curious: I tried to make a sketch of a row which lean against an old wall, and are built upon a rock that tumbles about in the oddest and most fantastic shapes, with a brawling waterfall dashing down a channel in the midst. These are, it appears, the beggars’ houses: anyone may build a lodge against this wall, rent-free; and such places were never seen! As for drawing them, it was in vain to try; one might as well make a sketch of a bundle of rags.  An ordinary pigsty in England is really more comfortable. Most of them were not six feet long or five feet high, built of stones huddled together, a hole being left for the people to creep in at, a ruined thatch to keep out some little portion of the rain. The occupiers of these places sat at their doors in tolerable contentment, or the children came down and washed their feet in the water. I declare I believe a Hottentot kraal has more comforts in it: even to write of the place makes one unhappy, and the words move slow. But in the midst of all this misery there is an air of actual cheerfulness; and go but a few score yards off, and these wretched hovels lying together look really picturesque and pleasing.

Despite the insensitivity of many of Thackeray’s comments, they do present a relatively accurate description of Bantry at the time of Sullivan’s birth.

Asenath Nicholson, American Missionary Bantry, 1845.

08 Saturday Oct 2011

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The pre-famine period was one of extreme poverty for those at the bottom.  Father Mathew said “if you wish to seek out the poor, go to Bantry”…

This is shown in the following extract from the journal of Asenath Nicholson an American Missionary who visited Bantry in 1845 and found a wild dirty sea-port with cabins built upon the rocks and hills, the people going about, not with sackcloth upon their heads, for this they could not purchase, but in rags and tatters such as no country but Ireland could hang out.   I found some deplorable cabins and looking into one, the sight was appalling………I saw a pile of dirty broken straw, which served as a bed for family and pigs; not a chair, table, or pane of glass, and no spot to sit except upon the straw in the corner, without sitting in mud and manure’.

Late 19th view Bantry before square filled in.

08 Saturday Oct 2011

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Decline of the Irish language Muintervara 19th century

08 Saturday Oct 2011

Posted by durrushistory in Irish words in use 1930s, Uncategorized

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bantry swanton, english language west cork, mizen dr garret fitzgerald, muintervara irish language


Irish

Muintervara started the 19th century as an Irish speaking area and finished English speaking.   There has been a lot of interest in the post on the Irish words used in English in Durrus in the 1930s and I though it might be opportune to look at the use of Irish and its decline in the area in the 19th century.

Being a coastal area and with a significant English speaking population since at least the early 18th century the decline in Irish speaking was more rapid than inland areas such as Caheragh or Kealkil.

Dr. Garrett Fitzgerald has done a study on the decline of Irish in the 19th century based on the 1911 Census[1].  He surmises that Irish was widely spoken in the area extending from South Kerry into West Cork bordering on the Liberties of Cork.  He excluded, however, the area of the Bandon valley and the two peninsulas (Muintervara and Mizen) bordering on Dunmanus Bay where the use of English was predominant by 1860.  This is set out on the table below from his researches.  The decline of Irish was more pronounced by the religious mix of the area involving settlement in the late 17th and 18th century in the eastern part of the peninsula by people of English and Huguenot origin and the influence of the various English speaking schools.  It might be noted that Scart and the Bantry rural area had a high percentage of people speaking Irish as did Dunbeacon and the western end of the peninsula.

Analysis of 1911 Census by Dr. Garrett Fitzgerald, of those born before 1851 and alive in 1911 who could speak Irish

Durrus/Kilcrohane DED

Population2779 60+413 60+%14.9 60+413 Irish Speaking 182 Irish Speaking 44 %
Durrus East 433 65 26 40
Durrus West 686 102 36 35
Glanlough 509 76 33 43
Seefin 555 83 32 39
Sheepshead 596 89 55 62
Neighbouring DEDs
Dunbeacon 588 86 60 70
Scart              549 48 56 100
Bantry Rural              1114 127 116 91

Note: DED is district electoral division.

Eliza Cole 84 widow married 1792 read Irish 1851 Census.  Frank O’Mahony (retired solicitor Banrry author of a history of Kilcrohane) refers to a complex court case heard in Cork in 1823 from Kilcrohane when all the witnesses gave evidence in Irish.   Fr. Matthew administered the pledge in Irish in Durrus in July; 1842.  The American missionary, Asenath Nicholson was in Bantry in 1845 and wrote ‘I left an Irish Testament where the man of the family could read Irish well, and to where no Bible had even been.  The peasants in this part of the country are not so afraid of the scriptures if they speak Irish, because they attach a kind of sanctity to this language.  The Rev Freke was preaching in Irish in Rooska and Glenlough in 1850.  Warburton the local Resident Magistrate questioned whether Irish interpreters could be paid in 1871.  Many of the people over 30 both Catholic and Protestant in the 1901 Census spoke both Irish. It is probable that the 1901 Census at least underestimated the extent of Irish in the older population.  Father Kearney preached in Irish when he was both a curate and parish priest of Durrus.  Gerry Jack Owen Daly (b.1915) recalls a number of Irish speakers in Kilcrohane in the 1920s.[2]

There were a number of business premises in Bantry in 1903 which had their names over the door in Irish, the mottos in the workhouse were in Irish and all the Poor law members could speak Irish[3]In October 1905 Mr O’Hourihan from the Gaelic League addressed a Public meeting in Durrus attended by Father O’Leary and presided over by J.D.O’Sullivan and acknowledged that Irish was seldom used in the district.  Around the same time Canon Shinkwin was talking to the older people in Borlin in Irish and asking them to speak Irish to the small children at night with a view towards arresting the decline of the language.  An article in the Southern Star in 1907 by ‘Ciaran Og’ bemoaned the lack of Irish on the Mizen Peninsula, Dunbeacon and Durrus.  It was not taught in the schools although the Durrus teachers were sympathetic this was in contrast to Bantry where there were classes in the Convent run by Conchubhair O Muineachain and Irish speakers around the town.  The area he felt was badly in need of a travelling Irish teacher.  Articles in Irish by Peadar O h-Anrachain appear in the Southern Star from 1907.  Going by the 1900 Census Irish was being passed onto children up to the 1890s[4]

In the neighboring parish of Ballydehob, Mr. Swanon, an irish scholar lived.  He wrote in 1846

‘that though the people here seem desirous to give it up, it will be a long time before they can express themselves with some comfort in English’.  He tried without success to get his 5 daughters to speak Irish or to have the servants use it in the house.

CENSUS 1901

Sheepshead DED Glenlough DED DED Seafin DED Durrus West  and East DED
Year Born1799 1
1800-1819 7 6 4 2
1820-1829 22 5 14 15
1830-1839 36 23 16 25
1840-1849 59 24 25 45
1850-1859 22 27 18 28
1860-1869 2 6 10 13
1870-1879 2 5 6 13
1880-1889 6 4 8
1890- 2 2 2
Percentage of speakers of Irish and English 21% 18% 15% 12%

In 1846, Thomas Swanton, Irish scholar from nearby Ballydehob remarked of the status of Irish in the locality ‘Though the people here seem desirous to give it up, it will be a long time before they can express themselves with such comfort in English’

[1] Royal Irish Academy, December 2003.

[2] Among those were Mrs Mahony and Dan Mahony Cahergall, Jim Cronin Eskeraha, Mrs Donovan Rhea who was also a teacher. His own father Dan Daly b 1850 had many songs in Irish.  Tadhg O Donnabhain, Kilcrohane,  b1919 has been an Irish scholar all his life, his mother nee Holland from the Coomhola area was a native speaker.  In 1938, school folklore project, Mary O’Donovan, Rearour, stated that Ellen Coakley aged 83 had Irish which she used to greet old friends or strangers.

[3] Southern Star 31 Jan 1903.

[4] Clashadoo Annie Canty 23, Timothy Dullon 26, Annie Dillon 24, John McCarthy 17.  Coomkeen Daniel Burke 25, Mary Burke 26.  Village Mary Levis 20.  Gerhameen Denis Sullivan 22, Michael Wholihan 20.  Ballycomane Michael Hurley 22, Richard Sweetnam 26, James Cleary 25.  Clonee Denis Dineen 18.  Coolculaghta William Coughlan 28 (his brother aged 22 had only English).  Murreagh Michael McCarthy 10, Nora Sweeney 20, William Sweeney 22.

Some of the older older Church of Ireland farmers in the 1900 Census had both English and Irish, Clashadoo Paul Shannon 70, Crottees Mary Deane 50, Jane Dukelow 72, John Camier 82.  James Dukelow 65 Drumtaniheen.  Ballycomane Richard Vickery 64.  Dromreagh John Jagoe (born outside Dunmnway) 75.

Harry Ward runs a website re the connection between the Casper, Wyoming area and KIlcrohane.  In it he says his father born 1890 remembers the old men outside the store in Kilcrohane talking Irish suggesting they acquired it 1830s/40s.

Dr. John O’Donovan L.L.D., The O’Daly Family (Bards Muintervara) 1852, Extract

08 Saturday Oct 2011

Posted by durrushistory in O'Dalys Bardic Family., Uncategorized

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Tags

daly kilcrohane bard bantry



Portrait of Dr. John O'Donovan (1809-1861), Scholar, National Gallery  on loan to Royal Irish Academy.
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Screen Shot 2018-08-27 at 07.41.28


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Screen Shot 2018-08-27 at 07.42.08

















Original Book Cornell University, New York

Prom the Genealogical Table given at p. 4, it is clear that
Cuchonnacht na Sgoile O'Daly, who died at Clonard, in 1139,
was the first man of the O'Dalys who was celebrated for his
learning. Prom his period forward poetry became a profession
in the family, and the Corca-Adaim sent forth poetical
professors to various parts of Ireland. About the middle of
the twelfth century Eaghnall O'Daly settled in Desmond, and
became chief professor of poetry to Mac Carthy, king of Des-
mond. Prom him, no doubt, the O'Dalys of Muintir-Bhaire,
in the south-west of the County of Cork, are descended ; but
their pedigree has not been preserved by the O'Clery's or Mac
Pirbises, and it is to be feared that it is irrecoverably lost. Dr.
O'Brien, indeed, asserts in his Irish Dictionary (voce dala),
that the O'Dalys of Munster are descended from the third son
of Aenghus, king of Cashel, who was baptized by St. Patrick ; 

'O'Beilly mentions twenty-eight poets of this family, and gives
the first lines of upwards of one hundred poems written by them ;
and we have in our own collection almost as many more which es-
caped his notice ; but they are chiefly religious, being the 
compositions
of Donough Mor O'Daly, who died in 1244, and of Aenghus O'Daly
surnamed " na Diadhachta" (the Pious or Divine), who flourished
about the year 1670. See O'Reilly's Irish Writers, p. cxxxix.
But this is one of the very many unaccountable errors with
which that work abounds. The same error has been interjiol-
ated into several modern copies of Keating's History of Ireland. 

Of the O'Dalys of Muintir-Bhaire, of whom was Aenghus
the Bard liuadli, some notices occur in the Pacata Hibernia,
Book III., and in the MS. entitled Carbrim Notitia, which
formed No. 591, of the sale catalogue of the late Lord Kings-
borough's library,' which are here given, that tlie reader may
have before him all the information respecting the sept of the
O'Dalys at present accessible : — 

" 1603. Fourth [of May], Odalie was convented before
the Lord President and Councell, and in regard it was proved
that hee came from the Eebells, with messages and offers to
Owen Sulevan. to adhere and combine with the Enemy,
which the said Owen did first reveal to Captaine Flower, Ser-
geant Major of the Army, and after publikely justified it to
Odalie' s face ; the said Baly was committed to attend his
tryal at the next sessions. 

"This Odalie^ s Ancestor had the country of Moyntirbary
given unto him by the Lord President's Ancestor, many hun-
dred yearcs past, at which time Carew had to his inheritance,
the moity of tjie whole kingdom.   This account of Carew is, however, not very accuratee of Corke, which was first
given by King Heni-y the second unto Robert Fitz StepJien ;
the service which Odaly and his progenie were to doe, for so
large a proportion of Lands unto Carew and his successors was
(according to the custom of that time) to bee their Eimers, or
Chroniclers of their actions." 

 this account is not very accurae; for .  the family never had
 possession of this territory until the reign
of Queen Elizabeth, and then only for a very short time. In
the reign of Edward III. Thomas de Carew set up a claim, as
heir to Eitz-Stephen, to all his ancient estates in Cork ; but
by an Inquisition taken at Cork, before Sir Anthony Lucey,
Lord Justice of Ireland, on the 31st. of August, in the fifth
year of the reign of Edward III., it was found that " Robert
Fitz-Stepheu died seized of the moiety of the estate granted
by Henry II. to him and Milo de Cogan, and that the said
Eitz-Stephen was a Bastard, and died without issue of his
body J that the claim of Thomas de Carew, asserting that he
and liis ancestors were heirs to Eitz-Stephen, could not be true,
because the said Fitz-Steplien was a Bastard, and died
without issue of his body." 

Notwithstanding this Inquisition the claim was again set
up in 1568, by Sir Peter Carew, whose brother Sir George,
was afterwards President of Munster ; but Sir Peter died in 1575,
and his heir Peter junior, was slain by the O'Byrnes at Qlen-
malure in 1580; and the prosecution of the suit ended in
nothing. (Four Masters, A. D. 1580). From this it is very
clear that the O'Dalys of Muintir- Bhaire had little or no
connection with the Carews either in the reigns of Edward III.
or of Elizabeth. The Author of Carbrice Notiiia, evidently seeing
through the fallacy of this statement in the Pacata Hibernia,
thus modifies it in his account of the south-west of the County
of Cork. 

" And soe [crossing Dunmanus Bay] you come to Mynter-
vary, which lyes between Dunmanus Bay and Bearhaven, in
which there is nothing worth observation except Coolnalong,
a pretty seat belongingformerly to Mucklagh, a sept of the
Cartys. This country was, according to Irish custome,
given to O'Daly, who was successively Bard to O'Mahony and
Carew ; and to O'Glavin, who was his Termoner or receiver."
Dr. Smith also describes Minterbarry, and calls it " a most
barbarous country, lying between Dunmanus Bay and Bantry
^^"j " (The story of Cork, Book II, c. ^.), but says nothing of
the O'Dalys in connection with it ! ! 

The head of this family had his residence at Druim-Naoi,
or Drumnea, in the parish of Kilcrohane, where a portion of
his house, commonly called " The Old College House," still
remains, and forms the residence of a farmer, Mr. George
Nicolas. The walls are well built, and cemented with lime
and mortar, and from fragments of ruins still to be seen close
to what remains, it may be inferred that it was once a house
of some importance. According to tradition, two sons of a
king of Spain, who were at school here under the tuition of
O'Daly, died and were buried in Drumnea. 

The head of this family, Aenghus, son of Aenghus Caech
O'Daly Cairbreach, died in the year 1507'. The last profes-
sional poet of this house was Conchobhar Cam O'Dalaigh Cair- 

'A branch of this family of the O'Dalys, removed to the County of
Kerry, a member of whom was the celebrated Daniel or Dominick
O'Daly, who wrote the History of the Geraldincs. He was born in
(he year 1505, and died at Lisbon in the year 1662.

breacbj wlio wrote an elegy of forty ranns or quatrainSj on the
death of Donnell O'Donovan, chief of Clann-Cathail, who died
in 1660, beginning: — 

" CiteAb bo tiU3 A1% tpAitcttAift ?Ou)ii)i)eAC ? "
" What has overtaken the Momonian Youths ?"
He also addressed a poem of thirteen ranns or quatrains,
to his pupil Donough, the son of Donnell O'Donovan, and
brotlier of said Donnell, who died in 1660, beginning : — 

" Saoc lcAii)-i-A luibe feof)ijcAi8. "
" Sorrowful to mo is the lying [siolmessj of Donnchadh." 

This Donough, who was the foster-son of O'Daly Cairbreach,
is the ancestor of Mr. James O'Donovan of Myross, in the
County of Cork. 

Conchobhar Cam O'Daly also addressed a short poem' of nine
quatrains, to Joan, daughter of Sir Owen Mac Carthy Eeaglt,
and wife of O'Donovan (Donnell, son of Donnell, son of Teige),
beginning : —
" O 1 Joan, confirm our treaty.'' 

The last descendant of O'Daly of Drumnea, who was recog-
nized in the country as the head of the sept, and who claimed
the O'Daly tomb at Kilcrohane, was Mr. James Daly of Bantry.
He removed from Bantry to Cork, where he became a distiller,
and kept a respectable establishment in John-street. He died
some three or four years since, leaving a son, Mr. James O'Daly,
who is still living at Cork. 

That Aenghus O'Daly the Bard Ruadh, was of this family,
but not the chief of it, little doubt can be entertained ; and
O'lleilly believes that he was the Angus O'Daly of Balliorrone,
wlio according to an Inquisition taken at the Old Castle in Cork,
on the 1 8th. of September, 16?,4, died on the 1 6th. of Decem-
ber, 1617, leaving a son Angus Oge O'Daly. 

The Ballyorrone mentioned in this Inquisition is now called
Ballyrune. It originally comprised the present Ballyrune, as
well as Cora, Laherdoty, and Ballyieragh. Laherdoty was for-
merly called Mid-Ballyrune, and Ballyieragh (BA^le iA|iCA|tAc,
i. e., west town), West-Ballyrune. The site and small portions 

' Copies of these poems are preserved in paper MS. about one
hundred and sixty years old, which was in the possession of Mr.
Peter Lavalli, late Peruquier of the Four Courts, Dublin ; and now
living in Paris. 

Of the walls of Aenglius O'Daly's, or the Bard Ruadfi's house,
are still pointed out in that subdivision of Ballyrune called
Cora. The walls are built of freestone and cemented with lime
and hair mortar. There is a rock near the Tower at Sheep's
Head, called Bfto Sleugun*, (i e., Angus's Quern), which is
locally believed to have received its name from Aenghus na
n-Aer O'JiiAy. Several of the Dalys, or 0' Dalys of Muintir-
Bhaire, claimed descent from him, namely, Daniel Daly of
Ahakista, deceased, and several others, but the widow Connell
alias Mary Daly, now in the Bantry work-house, is believed to
be the nearest akin to him now living. Her friends have emi-
grated to America. Several verses attributed to the Bard
Ruadh of Ballyrune, and having reference to his coshering pro-
pensities, in his old age, when he was poor, are still locally
recited, which corroborate O'Reilly's opinion, that he was the
Angus O'Daly mentioned in the Inquisition above referred to ;
but never, at any period of his life, was he poet to O'Keeffe, as
O'lleilly thinks. 

The family of O'Daly was always considered as forming about
the one-twelfth part of the population of Muintir-Bhaire, now
included in the parish of Kilcrohane. 

Prom a census of the population taken by the Eev. John Keleher, P. P., 
in October, 1834, it appears that the total popu-
lation of the parish was then 4448 souls, of which th6 O'Dalys
were 345, including 183 males, and 163 females, i. e., about
one-twelfth of the entire population. 

In December, 1849, a census of the parish was also taken
by the Eev. Jeremiah Cummins, R. C. C, from which it appears
that the population had decreased to 2820 souls, of which the
O'Dalys constituted 217, (125 males, and 92 females), i. e., one-
thirteenth of the entire population. Both censuses prove that
the O'Dalys have kept up their old proportion to the population,
although they are as liable to disappear by starvation and emi-
gration as the other families of Muintir-Bhaire. 

The O'Dalys (who appear to have forfeited the last remnant
of their property in Muintir-Bhaire, at the Revolution), are now
reduced to the condition of cottiers or struggling farmers, in this
wild district. The principal proprietors at present are, Richard
O'Donovan, Esq., J. P., Fort Lodge, Bantry ; Dr. Daniel
O'Donovan of Skibbereen, J. P. ; Timothy O'Donovan, Esq.,
J. P., O' Donovan's Cove; and Timothy O'Donovan, Esq., of
Ardahill. 

The ancestor of the three first-mentioned proprietors, took
this large tract of land for 999 years, from a Mr. Congreve of
Mount Congreve, in the County of Waterford, an undertaker ;
to whose descendant they still pay some small head rent. Ti-
mothy O'Donovan, Esq., of Ardahill (who descends from Kedagh
Mor, the youngest son of O'Donovan, by the daughter of Sir
Owen Mac-Carthy Reagh), was himself the purchaser of Arda-
hill, Oarravilleen, Derry-clovane and Taunmore.

Kilcrohane Townlands

08 Saturday Oct 2011

Posted by durrushistory in Uncategorized

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West Cork Civil Parishes

08 Saturday Oct 2011

Posted by durrushistory in Uncategorized

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